Cala Morescoe, Near Golfo Aranci

It's a windy day and we just walked a dirt road to Golfo Aranci where we sampled a Sardinian flatbread sandwich, spianate calde. It met with our approval:-)

We camped in a very sheltered cove near Capo Figari. The cove was a lovely place, Cala Morescoe, at the end of a winding dirt road leading to a traditional goat farm. I watched the farmer hand milk his long haired goats and then sat quietly on the beach, looking southwards towards Isola Tavolara, where we'd stopped for lunch.


We'd paddled with vigour to reach thhe island which had risen into view the previous day, towering skywards in a cathedral like way, piercing the clouds that hovered above, making it appear misty and mysterious. It rose as a long serrated spine with a rudder on the end. We'd paddled across two bays, the second, a ten kilometer crossing, stopping only to eat a banana and a granola bar. Our day had started with a cappucino and croissant at the beach bar in Budoni, Sa Capannizza. Tonino bid us farewell on our journey by presenting us a baseball cap with the bar's name on it.


Padddling again into headwinds, albeit light, has me looking forward to rounding the northern tip past the Strait of Bonifacio which separates Sardinia from Corsica, where the prevailing northwestern wind, the mistral, will be our ally we hope. We have reached the section of coast known as the Costa Smeralda, a seductive stretch of sculpted rock, hidden coves, sheltered beaches and world class yachting opportunities. I'd paddled the Costa Smeralda in August, 2003, dodging multi million dollar yachts with bronze, topless tanning beauties, always wondering who owned the yachts who had no tolerance for a recreational kayaker in its way. But the coast is quieter now, with only a handful of tourists present. The weather has been changeable and the nights are often cool enough to be snuggled in my down sleeping bag.

Last night on the miniscule crescent of beach barely wide enough for our kayaks, I erected the Hilleberg tent with little room to spare. Rene didn't trust it, fearing water seep into the tent with the rising tide, but I felt quite confident the lapping water would not enter....and I fell asleep soundly thinking of my wonderful friends.


Since fairly strong headwinds were predicted for today, we decided to sleep in, though I awoke at the crack of dawn as a fisherman checked his net in the cove with the boat's engine puttering. It was a warm, sunny morning and though the cove was out of the wind, the pine trees had the wind whistling through.

I decided to roll the Current Designs Solstice GTS with my Avatak Greenland paddle, but I had not rolled much these past few months and I had several missses, not used to rolling this kayak with a small Greenland paddle. (I usually roll my CD with my Epic wing blade.) Meanwhile goats checked out Rene who sat watching nearby and then a sex crazed Golden retriever who wouldn't stop humping Rene's leg joined the activity in the cove.


We are now eating gelato. In all likelihood, we will paddle towards the Madalena Islands tomorrow when less strong headwinds are predicted.